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Before the festivalization of the Coachella Valley and Modernism Week began attracting design devotees to Palm Springs in six-digit numbers, I fell in love with Palm Springs for its wacky backstories. I stayed at a new-age natural springs and spa that had been mobster Al Capone’s West Coast bolt-hole. I checked into the then-new Parker Hotel Palm Springs, California’s first Holiday Inn – newly redone with kitschy California Regency interiors by a young Jonathan Adler. And I stopped by Desert Memorial Park to pay tribute to Frank Sinatra, buried there with a bottle of Jack Daniel’s whiskey and a dollar’s worth of dimes – in case he needed to use a pay phone. In the over two decades since, I’ve been hooked. Having seen all these and many more, I now give you my up-to-date list of the best hotels in Palm Springs.
257 South Patencio Road
Price:$373-1163/night
Korakia Pensione has the kind of low-key exotic glam that makes it feel like a private hideaway you found yourself. In fact, it sits on two sides of one small street in the Historic Tennis Club neighborhood. On one side, you’ll enter a Moroccan villa, complete with a dramatic keyhole-shaped door, built in the 1920s by painter Gordon Coutts.
On the other, a Mediterranean mini compound once owned by silent screen star J. Carrol Nash that includes a historic adobe cottage with a private courtyard and its own citrus grove. You’ll eat breakfast (included) in the courtyard on the Moroccan side under the shade of orange trees by a bubbling fountain.
And at night, the staff light more than 100 candles that illuminate the olive, date, and palm trees. The revivified villas feel just as they must have when their owners entertained intellectuals, movie stars, and artists nearly a century ago.
200 West Arenas Road
Price:$154-1081/night
Architect Herbert W. Burns designed this 1950s gem around its pool – a popular convention of mid-century modern architecture. It’s perfectly situated in the Historic Tennis Club neighborhood, just a few minutes’ walk from Downtown Palm Springs.
Now rendered in lively cobalt and white since its redesign, Holiday House is an exercise in snappy colors and crisp lines. This is a zippy hotel with a sense of humor (I once stayed in a room whose amenities basket included a very funny book whose title I probably shouldn’t put in print).
Take the complimentary polka-dotted bikes (blue and white, of course) for a ride, walk downtown or up into the hills, or simply lounge around one of the most picturesque pools in Palm Springs. Keep in mind that Holiday House, like most hotels in Palm Springs, favors dogs over kids.
1620 South Indian Trail
Price:$158-1289/night
An early ad for Villa Royale showed sunbathers relaxing around a pool cluster of 38 Spanish Mission Revival bungalows around a big pool and invited guests to “play in the sun” in beautifully appointed rooms with “telephone switchboard service, lanai lounge and recreation room, heated swimming pool…and shuffleboard.”
It was signed “Your hostess, Mrs. Evelyn Pell.” One of the first hotels to open in South Palm Springs in 1947, Villa Royale became a hideaway for high profile Hollywood fun seekers and has retained its gracious hosting spirit for nearly eight decades.
Reopened in 2018 after a refurbishment, its owners have kept its original classic bones – mahogany woodwork, terracotta floors, exposed beam ceilings – and added colorful graphic Portuguese and Spanish tiles and 50 commissioned pieces of artwork that lend some Hollywood glam to your stay. Don’t miss the restaurant and bar Del Rey, with its oak and marble bar and an outdoor firepit.
1555 North Indian Canyon Drive
Price:$172-694/night
A tired former mid-century motor inn transformed into a collection of 21 casitas and guest rooms, Fleur Noire is a design departure from Palm Springs’ mid-mod style, and one of the most unique hotels in Palm Springs. Its bungalows, painted in black, are illuminated with massively scaled floral murals.
The layout of the original 1940s Burket’s Trade Winds Hotel remains the same, with a pool at its center, but the landscape is now filled with native desert plants. The reimaging of this property is smart: white beamed ceilings and terracotta floors remain – a nod to their origins.
The hotel is perfect for casual lounging by the outdoor fire pits at night. And look for the tiny speakeasy rosé bar, La Boisson, behind pink doors. You can even text in your order so you don’t have to move from your poolside station for your rosé-all-day experience.
44-985 Province Way
Price:$136-617/night
Imagine a lifeless, sand-colored condo timeshare building. Now imagine it made over by designer Martyn Lawrence Bullard into an ornate pink and white Moroccan kasbah, and you’ll have Sands Hotel & Spa in the affluent, tennis-loving resort community of Indian Wells, southeast of Palm Springs.
The Sands does nod to the area’s roots with guest rooms done in mid-century furniture and pops of bright colors, and custom minibar cabinets stocked with crystal stemware. But it’s the Moroccan lobby, decked out in Bullard’s custom-designed black-and-white tile, coupled with a spa that shimmers with zellige-tiled walls and cushioned nooks tucked under theatrical archways that make this resort transformative.
The hotel’s restaurant, the Pink Cabana, is (obviously) very pink, with palm tree wallpaper and lined with vintage fashion shots – a throwback to midcentury tennis clubs. It’s a tough reservation to secure, especially during the BNP Paribas Open, so call early.